Within
my own world I've been seeking out these experiences through the institution of
staging, one of the great remnants of an older time for our industry. Although
the apprenticeship model has been largely abandoned in this country, the
practice of staging remains entrenched within our culture as there is seldom a
restaurant that will turn away free labor. It is a symbiotic relationship
between the restaurant and the stagiaire, as the kitchen benefits from a
presumably competent set of hands, and the cook gains insights into the
restaurant's food and style of service that cannot be understood by simply
eating at the establishment. These experiences become distinct in the mind as
we force ourselves into an abrasive foreign environment filled with commotion.
We feel alien to this space that is not our own, but often warm quickly to its
environment as the typical landmarks of a kitchen become readily apparent.
Cooks quickly go from strangers to temporary compatriots with the realization
that their prep lists became a bit shorter, their stress a bit subdued, and for
a night you become a member of the line working towards the same goal as the
rest of the staff.
The
cook is welcomed because of the assistance he can lend, while the experience is
pivotal to the stagiaire because it offers a fresh vision, a different
perspective on the same ingredients we all become accustomed to seeing in our
respective walk-ins. It is this breadth of experiences that function to guide a
line cook's development, constructing a more nuanced character that will only
benefit him or her as the cook progresses towards the positions of sous and
chef. But, more importantly, as I entered kitchens with Michelin stars, I
witnessed a level of execution to which I was previously unaccustomed. Cooking
was cleaner and more exact, stations more carefully manicured, and food plated
more deliberately. This is of course a reflection of the number of cooks on the
line, the demands that the chefs place upon the kitchen, and the expectations
of the restaurant to meet a certain standard for dining, but it also inspires
the stagiaire to embrace this level of service and bring it home to their own
kitchen.
While
most cooks do not work within a service style that allows them to only plate
three or four menu items, the behavior and standards of a Michelin cook are
easily translatable to one that works in a more casual setting. Staging not
only allows the cook to experience new modes of preparation, but more
importantly he or she witnesses a level of cookery that inspires change in
their own work ethic. We come home to the comfort of familiar walls and
temperamental ovens, bearing with us the inspiration to change for the better,
the challenge to embrace an ethic we only experienced momentarily. I will
continue to immerse myself in foreign walls, consuming that which is unfamiliar
while fitting these experiences into a constantly shifting culinary identity.
Roaming Linecook For Life.
Ian
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